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Ilford Delta 400 Vs. Ilford Super Xp2

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The perfect combination of sharpness and creaminess is complements of the Contax G2 and the 45mm f2 Planar. Ilford Delta 400.

 I love Ilford Super Xp2, as I loved Ilford XP2 before it.  Its an almost grainless, contrasty film with brilliant highlights and inky shadows.  You can change the ASA between each frame from 50 to 800 ASA and then just process the whole roll at 400 ASA.  Its great for older cameras with uncertain shutter speeds.  Finally its (in my opinion) the finest black and white portrait film made.  Its important to note the Super Xp2 is not a silver based film, its a dye based film developed in the same chemicals (C-41 process) as color print film.  This is the film I use the most.

(Click photo’s to enlarge.)

Ilford Super Xp2

Ilford Super Xp2

Lately, my good friend Justin (who just started his own very informative blog) kept chiding me to use some good old fashion silver based film.   I decided to shoot some Ilford Delta 400, a fine grain 400 speed film with very good midtones. (far better than Super Xp2)

Ilford Delta 400

 With Delta 400, its grain is evident, making the photo look soft and delicate in my opinion.

Delta 400

Ilford Delta 400 in the late evening.

 While its not going to replace Super Xp2 as my go to film, Delta 400 has a pleasing softness to it.   And as I always say, both film and lenses are just just different brushes for you to paint with, try them all and learn to choose the right ones for the situation at hand.

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The Spark Program.

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This is my third semester teaching a student for the San Francisco branch of the Spark Program.

  I will be posting my student Carlos’s photos after the end of this teaching session.

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The Contax G2 with the Yashica T4 in “The Mystery of the Painted Lady.”

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Yashica T4 with Ilford Super XP2. The model is Alyssa Maich.

I decided to pair up my Contax G2 and Yashica T4 to see how the two different Carl Zeiss lenses would handle an especially bright sunny day in downtown San Francisco.

Contax G2 with the 45mm f2 Planar

Having done this I learned a valuable lesson, the Yashica T4 has trouble handling complex lighting situations in extremely bright light.  This doesn’t actually surprise me, the T4′s light meter is just an exposed silicon photodiode located near its lens.  Saying this, the T4 has handled other complex lighting situations perfectly, just at lower light levels.

Contax G2 with the 45mm f2 Planar

The Contax G2 handled every lighting situation perfectly, as expected.  However, I wasn’t paying attention and totally blew the focus on two shots. (both shots were focused at infinity when the model was about 7 feet away.) I wouldn’t call this a problem with the camera.  Both mis-focused shots were taken in a dark alley with the sun at the models back. (Not exactly prescribed lighting technique.)  I know the G2′s autofocus gets a bit wonky in dim light and I should have been diligently checking the green focus indicator bar in the G2′s viewfinder to see where the camera was actually focused.

The bar on the bottom of the viewfinder tells you your distance to subject.

Yashica T4

Contax G2 with the 45mm f2 Planar

Contax G2 with the 45mm f2 Planar

Everything considered both cameras performed admirably, and I am more than happy with the results.

 

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The Fuji X100 Vs. The Konica Hexar AF

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Fuji X100

The other day I took out my Fuji X100 and my Konica Hexar AF.

I paired them up because the X100 seems to be a digital redux of the Hexar.

Konica Hexar AF with Ilford Super XP2

The X100 has gone from a camera I left at home to one that I’ve been using a lot thanks to the new firmware update.

Fuji X100 with its internal 3 stop neutral density filter.

Konica Hexar with a 2 stop B+W neutral density filter.

  I also want to mention how convenient it is to have an push button internal neutral density filter, especially after switching them out all day on my Konica Hexar.

Fuji X100

Konica Hexar AF

 I have to say that Hexar is the faster shooting camera.  Its auto focus is extremely fast, as fast as my Nikon F5 and faster than my Nikon D300.  The X100 not so much, its AF ranges between slow and glacial. (In macro mode.)  I certainly would not recommend it for sports or auto racing. Though I have shot several birthday parties with young children and it was more than able to handle that, so maybe I am being unfair to the X100.  (Its still way slower than the Hexar.)

Fuji X100

Konica Hexar AF

The light meters on both cameras were on equal ground with each other.  Both cameras produced images that were well exposed and only required minor tweaking.

This was an extreme lighting situation that the X100 handled nicely. No flash.

The more I shoot the X100, the more I like it. No flash.

As to which camera is best, I’ll let you decide.

However, if your trying to decide if you want to acquire an X100 consider this, Ive just put the X100 through twelve rounds with a camera I consider to have one of the finest 35mm lenses ever made.  Other people have called the Konica Hexar’s lens a “Summicron killer, ” which is of course a reference to the Leica 35mm f/2 Summicron-M pre-aspherical. A world class lens to say the least.

When considering the out of focus characteristics of the two lenses, remember the Hexar is a full frame camera and will experience more blurring of the background at all apertures.

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Building a “Minute” Street Camera. Part 2.

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Today I visited one of the most accomplished and well respected woodworkers in the Bay area to get an idea of what it would cost to replicate the camera shown above.  His quote was six to ten thousand dollars.  I was seriously disheartened to hear this.

The reason why I went to the finest woodworker I could find is because I expect a certain rugged elegance in the cameras I use.  In fact I know that if I build a sub-par camera, I’ll never use it.  So at the time it seemed logical to just find the best woodworker I could.

The odd thing about his quote is that he only charges sixty dollars an hour.  Which means he expects this project to take between 100 to 160 hours to complete, keeping in mind that he was going to bill me for the time he spent designing the camera and its mechanical parts.

After letting all of this sink in, I concluded the best thing to do would be to design this camera myself to be made entirely by a CNC router right down to the dovetail joints and the aluminum focusing unit.

At this point I could afford to have my master woodworker do the last few steps to assemble it and make it beautiful, in maybe ten hours.

If I can accomplish this I would either open source the CNC plans or sell a kit you could put together yourself.

Let me know in the comments If you think that you would buy a kit including all the hardware to make a “minute” street camera, or if you think that open sourcing the CNC design plans would be a better idea.  Also if you have any experience with Autocad type programs and would like to help me out, please contact me.

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Fuji X100 Lens Sharpness

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For some reason I haven’t been shooting my Fuji X100 lately so I took it out with a model the other day….

Fuji X100 at f4

Just before I left for the shoot I installed the latest firmware for the camera.  The autofocus speed was noticeably improved by the update and the camera didn’t lock up a single time. (I’ve been running a very old firmware for a long time and it was having a problem with the whole camera locking up.)  So I seriously suggest you get the latest firmware.  As for how sharp the lens is on the X100, here you go.

I was actually shocked when I realized how sharp this image is, at f4.

When I first got the X100, I honestly didn’t like it.  I tend to shoot a lens wide open to blur out the background but at f2 the X100 is unacceptably soft.  I apparently didn’t realize by just stopping down to f2.8 the lens becomes very sharp and is crackling sharp at f4. (I am aware I just made that word up.)

John Vicino at Market and Fourth, downtown San Francisco. Fuji X100, f2.8. The X100 is a wonderful camera for street photography.

 

A reader asked if I would post a color version of this image.

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Impossible Films PX-70

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Taken with a Polaroid 680 SLR, the model is Mischa Marie.

I’ve had some of the new PX-70 for a while now, plus some film that had been sitting in my cars trunk for about four months.  So I shot some of both.

This film was left in my trunk of my car for about four months.

Trunk film.

What you know about trunk film?

I have to say, the Impossible films destroy my vision of a “technically perfect” photograph in such a beautiful and glorious way.

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Contax G2 Review

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I Recently received my Contax G2 back from Tocad, the official repair shop for Contax cameras.  So theoretically, it has been adjusted to factory specifications and is as mechanically sound as its going to get.  Lets take it for a test drive.

As usual, with all the good technical reviews of the G2 out there, Ill be reviewing the shooting experience and the final images produced.

(For the record, all these shots are at f2 in extremely low light right before sunset on Ilford Super XP2 and scanned with a Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED.)

 

The lens is tack sharp and the out of focus areas are creamy, allowing your subject to really pop out from the background. The model is my good friend Yusef Lambert.

The camera feels good in the hand, solid, with a silky brushed aluminum finish.  The controls are laid out in a very intuitive way.  The viewfinder is bright and zooms to match the focal length  of each lens.  It also zooms to compensate for parallax error, so what you see in the viewfinder is pretty much what you get on the negative.  The exposure meter is very accurate, and the aperture proprietary mode has only given me excellent exposures.  Unfortunately, all is not perfect.  The autofocus system is finicky, you really need to push the AF button on the back of the camera several times to be really sure the camera is focused where you want it to be.  In a low light situations this advice is even more important.  Once you get used to this particular foible, the camera is a dream to use.

And G2 makes you want to use it, how can I describe this….its like if someone lent you an Aston Martin DB7 to drive along along a beautiful coastline.  You would arrive at your destination with a certain unquantifiable satisfaction you wouldn’t have experienced if you had driven the same road in a VW bus.  That is the satisfaction you receive from the Contax G2.

Another problem I have with the G2 is that its lenses only have six blades forming their apertures. Meaning any out of focus point light sources (candles light bulbs, etc.) will be 6 sided polygons instead of more pleasant circles.

I acquired the G2 to complement my Konica Hexar AF.  The Hexar has a world-class 35mm f2 Hexanon lens and I wanted a 50mm lens of similar quality.  The Carl Zeiss 45mm f2 Planar seemed to be the one I was looking for.  If I run across the 28mm f2.8 Biogon at a good price I might get it, but honestly I feel the 45mm is the lens for this system.

This was taken in just awful lighting conditions, the G2's meter took it in stride.

The Contax G2 and the 45mm f2 Planar are a class act, with James Bond styling and a lens sharper than a Leica 50mm Summicron.  If you can deal with its focusing eccentricities, then the Contax G2 offers a world class shooting experience with a lens sharper than any you can mount on a dSlr.

Should you get one, of course you should.

I’m really happy with look of the 45mm f2 Planar.  Remember this was shot at f2, at f5.6-f8 the lens is even sharper.
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Accoutrements for a “Minute” Street Camera.

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A negative, positive print dryer, it would allow the Street Photographer to keep his workflow going without having to wait for the prints to drip dry.

These are accessories for the “minute” street camera I mentioned in  previous articles.

The print dryer attached to a tripod. Note the burner beneath the print holder, the whole dryer must have heated up to a skin burning temperature. I surly wouldn't mount it on my wooden camera and tripod.

When shooting with positive paper the image you get is reversed, this device allows you to take a photo with the right orientation. You would slip it on the lens and point the camera away from your subject so that the mirror is facing the subject. Note the framing aid on top of the device. If you plan on making one of these, remember that you cant use a regular mirror, you need to use an optically flat mirror.

When using vertical hanging development trays, such a device is necessary.

Note the two hanging trays, one for the developer and one for the fixer. You would certainly need some kind of dipper to move the prints between chemical baths easily.

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Building a “Minute” Street Camera, part one.

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This is a instant ferrotype camera. Circa 1931. (60 dollars in 1931 equates to 885.82 in 2011) Note the copy stand used in photographing the negative to make a positive. (in the two step process)

 

Ever since I first saw this kind of camera on a family trip to mexico, I’ve been fascinated with both the process it utilizes and the ghostly images it produces.

As far as I can tell from 20 plus hours of serious web research in multiple languages, the original form of this camera came into being around 1909-1910 in the form of the Ferrotype “instant” camera.   These cameras were sold to individuals so they could make money by taking pictures of people on the street or at the beach or wherever people congregate.  The ferrotype process was very easy to use, you would make an exposure on a special ferrotype paper and simply drop it into a single tank of chemicals, then rinse the print in water and hand the resulting positive print to your customer.

Sometime around 1950 the commercially made “minute” cameras switched to a two stage process in which the photographer would make an exposure  on regular printing paper, producing a paper negative.  Then the photographer would take a photo of the negative, producing a positive print.   The reason for the change was probably because the ferrotype paper became unavailable or because the two step process produced a better looking print.

(The ferrotype process notoriously produced grey prints lacking in contrast.)

A description of the paper negative instant photo process form July 1937.

 

This youtube video explains the basic operation of the “minute” camera.

 (WordPress is not letting me embed a video, sorry.)

After my fist blog post on this subject, I was contacted by Lukas Birk, the founder of the Afghan Box Camera Project, at the time he was putting together a manual on how to build them.  He has recently finished that manual.

Since his construction manual is finished, I’ve decided to start building one of these rare cameras.  Now when I say build, I really mean design, then subcontract the actual construction out to an skilled woodworker and more than likely a CNC controlled router.

This is a very easy to build version of this camera. I'm sure it gives adequate results, but I plan to massively over-engineer the one I build. Image is courtesy of afghancamera.blogspot.com

The “minute” cameras come in two basic varieties.  Internal focusing and external focusing.  Image courtesy of the Afghan Box Camera Project.

I have decided to go with the Internal focus, it’s more difficult to construct, but should be much more resistant to damage and normal wear and tear.   I should mention that I am constructing this camera under the (hopefully pretend) assumption that it will be my only means of income, so I plan to make it as bulletproof as possible.  Im doing this because I want to make the finest camera I can, and because I’ve lived off the proceeds of my polaroid 110b before, and I know life can be a funny thing, so I might indeed need to live off this camera if my life makes an unforeseeable left turn.  Hmmn….I suppose deep down, the real reason Im building this camera is to make a gris-gris against absolute poverty, but I would never admit that to anyone.  (maybe I shouldn’t have written that….)  Anyway, after deciding on what kind of focusing mechanism to use, the next thing I need to do is find a suitable lens for my soon to be camera.

A lens with a central shutter is almost a whole camera, all you need to add is a light tight box and a way to hold the imaging material (and a way to focus if you want) and boom, camera.

You should always build a camera around its lens (and shutter.)  After calling several camera stores and not finding anything that enthused me, I took a look in my camera closet (everybody has a closet full of camera’s right?) and I found two eminently suitable lenses.  A medium format Mamiya 80mm f2.8 covering a 6by6 cm square and a Kodak Ektar 127mm f4.7 covering a 4by5 inch area.

At this point I remembered some keen observations (rule #4 specifically) made by Paul C. Pottash (a man with experience in these matters)

1. It is best to have 3 trays inside the camera so that you can use a stop bath and avoid exhausting the hypo prematurely.

2. Remember that a camera filled with chemicals is not very portable unless you have some means of covering the trays to keep them from spilling when you want to move the camera without removing the chemicals and setting everything up again.

3. Most photographic papers are very unforgiving to exposure errors.

4. Don’t make the camera too heavy or complicated or the paper negatives and prints too big.

5. A “close up” lens is more convenient in use than a one to one extension of the bellows.

6. Don’t get your “peep hole” and safe light apertures too big.

7. Use some kind of hypo eliminator for the final wash and resin coated paper.

8. Always use a cable release.

After re-reading his comment I’ve decided to go with the 80mm f2.8 lens for a couple of reasons.

1. Its a stop and a half faster than the 127mm f4.7, this will allow me to have a much brighter image on the ground glass, making it easy to focus and of course allowing me to take photos in less light than the 127mm.

2. Its lens to film distance during a 1 to 1 enlargement is 160 mm vs. 254mm for the 127mm lens.  (Update, I’ve completely flip-flopped and decided to use the 127mm Ektar.)

The formula for this is, [distance between rear lens element and film]= f*(1+M) where f is the lenses focal length and M is the magnification desired.

To make a positive print you have to take a photo of the negative at a 1 to 1 magnification. So the 1:1 distance between the lens and film determines the minimum size of the "minute" camera I wish to build.

 3.  The 80mm f2.8 will allow me to build a smaller camera around a 6by6 cm negative and produce a 6by6 cm print.   Since I am producing a square image I dont need the complicated turning mechanism needed to change the negative from a horizontal orientation into a vertical one. Like the one seen in the picture below.

You would grasp the ground glass and rotate the whole assembly left or right.

Instead I can sandwich the paper negative between a metal mask and the copy stand to crop the image when I take a picture of the negative to produce a positive.  See image below.


Now that I have the lens I need to figure out what kind of wood to use.  After a little research the answer seems obvious.  Marine plywood, its strong, warp resistant, and water resistant.  After that I need to decide on the shape of the camera.  Here are some of the better quality examples I have found.

A bit plain and boxy, but I like the wood viewing hood and the wood retaining ring for the dark-sleeve. (the sleeve allows you to place your hand inside the camera without letting light enter the camera.)

A little plain and workaday

Now were getting somewhere, this one has some class.

Plain, but the copy stand is constructed in an interesting way.

Overly ornate. It doesn't look like this one can be fitted onto a tripod, what with that elaborate base. Maybe it sat on some sort of pedestal, just a guess.

After all that online searching I believe I have found the design I want to recreate.

This video shows the camera I plan to base my own version on.

(WordPress is not letting me embed a video, sorry.  Please do watch the first three minutes.)

Its the most beautiful "minute" camera I've ever seen.

It uses rods and linkages to allow many of its functions to be utilized by turning levers. Which is awesome.

Notice the two hanging chemical trays, one is developer, the other the fixer.

I plan to use this technique to make the ground glass.

I will of course have three locking, hanging chemical trays on the one I build. One for the developer, one for the stop bath and one for the fixer.

There are two chambers for storing the finished dried negatives on the outside of the camera under the metal flaps, with four chambers on the inside to hold graded photo paper.

There are a few things I still need to figure out. 

 1.  How to construct the ground glass/paper holder.

2.  How to make the ground glass/paper holder move smoothly back and forth to focus while retaining its vertical and horizontal alignment with the lens.

3.  Since I want to be able to shoot this camera untill the day they stop making photo paper it has to be able to handle Ilford multigrade paper.  I’ll have to include a way to mount an Ilford multigrade filter directly behind the lens.  This would allow me to fully control the contrast of the resulting image. (I am betting on the fact that Ilford multigrade will probably be the last photo paper made, hopefully that will be many decades away, hopefully.)

4. Probably a few hundred more problems that will only become evident when I start building the camera.

Ilford currently makes both graded paper and a direct positive paper.

Incidentally

I am looking for someone in the San Francisco Bay Area who is a very skilled woodworker and has mechanical problem solving skills.  If you know of such a person please let them know about my project.

I will be keeping you informed of my progress.

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Nikon may kill local camera repairers

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Nikon is cutting off independent camera repairers from the nikon parts supply.  Meaning that you will have to send your camera to an authorized repair center that is probably not even in your state.  This will severely  cut into the profits of qualified camera repair technicians and discourage other people from entering the field.

 

This is a link to an online petition to let Nikon know you think this is a horrible idea.

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Decim8 3.0 Beta Review

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The programmer of Decim8 was nice enough to send me a Beta of the upcoming release.

This new version of the program, to me at least, seems to blend the effects better than the earlier versions.

All of the old effects are back plus seven new ones.

After running the image through the program a few times, you'll find a glitch that complements the original image.

This is a new filter that really takes your photos into the land of the surreal.

This filter opens some sort of doorway to a dimension not only of sight and sound, but of mind.

Sometimes the output has very little to do with the input, but thats not a bad thing.

Heres the original image, and the subsequent Decim8tions.

 

#1

#2

#3 (Same settings as #2)

#4 (Same settings as #2) As you can see, running the same photo through same Decim8 filters will lead to dramatically different output images.

This filter is like an 8 bit deconstruction of your image.

Decim8 is by far my favorite app on the iPhone.  This new versions doesn’t break anything and only adds to the glitchy goodness.   I whole heartedly recommended this app to any photo minded individual, even if you shoot film. (All of the above images are made from scans of 35mm negatives.)  Some people may not get the point of “glitching” an image, but if you like the aesthetics of it, then this program is worth its weight in gold.  In case your wondering, there is no other program on the market that does what Decim8 does.  (If you hear of one that does please let me know about it.)

I have no idea when the 3.0 update will be pushed out to iPhone users, but I can tell you one thing, its worth the wait.

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Contax G2: My first role of film through it.

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Let me just say off the bat, the 45mm f2 Planar is a magnificent lens.

 There’s a horrible moment when you get that first roll of film taken with a newly acquired camera, and you realize that something is wrong.  My new-to-me Contax G2 with the 45mm f2 planar unfortunately has a focusing problem where its not exactly focusing where I want it to.  I’ve already sent it off to Tocad America to get fixed.

Please excuse any focus problems present in these example pictures, it was certainly not intentional.

(Update, here is my full review.)

These were taken in a lovely Oakland park, the model is my friend, Mischa Marie.

The G2's exposure meter performed flawlessly.

This is what I would call a critical failure of the focusing system.

The 45mm f2 planar focuses to 19 inches, which at f2 gives you about half an inch of focus.

My good friend Yusef Lambert looking quite serious.

For an f2 lens, it can really throw the background out of focus in quite a pleasing way. (Auto-focus. I'm not mad at it, but I am disappointed.)

I focused carefully on his left eye, and his right eye is in focus. Curse you 20 year old camera that I bought used and expect to magically work perfectly despite its age.

Aside from the focusing problem with my G2, it seems to be a very nice camera to shoot. (Please keep in mind I’ve only run one roll of film through it.)

The camera itself feels like a brick with its titanium outer case and an alloy inner skeleton.  If that sounds heavy, it is.

I can certainly say that the viewfinder is very accurate.  Since the G2 adjusts for parallax by both cropping and zooming the viewfinder, what you see through it is exactly what you get on your negative.

When I get the G2 back in about a month, I’ll do a proper review of it.

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Another first birthday

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This is a little boy’s first birthday at one of those pottery painting places.  It was a wonderful party.

Not a single Smurf was spared.

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2

3

 

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Decim8 3.0 Beta

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Glitched with Decim8 3.0 beta

I just received the beta of Decim8 3.0 and after playing around with it for a couple hours I have to say that my initial reaction is very positive.

Here are some test images.

Decim8 3.0 beta

Decim8 3.0 beta

Decim8 3.0 beta

Decim8 3.0 beta

Decim8 3.0 beta

Decim8 3.0 beta

I’ll have a full review of this beta up in a few days.

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First impressions of the Fuji X100

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While out with my friend Yusef, I grabbed a few shots with the X100. This is a straight out of the camera B&W Jpeg.

 I am in the process of writing a full review of the X100, but my first impressions are mixed.

This is a straight RAW to Jpeg conversion of the above image. No in camera processing.

Yusef being silly, which is totally out of character for him.

The camera handles like a dream, the controls are very intuitive for a film user.  However, the lens exhibits some serious distortion at closer distances, and with the lens wide open at f2, the resulting image is unacceptable soft.

Please take my early opinions with a grain of salt, as with any tool you need to learn the quirks of handling a particular camera before you can shoot it to its full potential.

The full review of the X100 and a review of the Contax G2 are coming within the next few weeks.

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X100

Fuji X100 and the sticky aperture blade problem

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After much internal debate I finally decided to acquire a Fuji X100.  I started by calling every camera store in a 60 mile area and discovered that I was not going to buy one new. (The average price I found for an X100, filter ring adapter, UV filter, and a good SD card was about 1,500 dollars, American.)  So I started perusing craigslist, a few days later I found a deal I could live with.  So, as I was sitting, cleaning the lens of my beautiful new (used) X100, I started finding forum threads describing a problem with the aperture blades sticking.  The symptoms start out intermittently and eventually freeze open the aperture blades at f2 rendering the camera basically useless.  My horror began to grow with each post, from what I was reading this was a real problem, at least thats what the threads were saying.  This was very troubling to me because I had bought my X100 used and I assumed that the warranty (7 months left) would only be honored for the original purchaser. After reading ten or so pages, I realized that most of the posts were from people who hadn’t had any problem at all with their X100, but were worried that they might have a problem in the future. This is when I decided that most of these posts were made out of sheer paranoia, and I decided to stop worrying and just call the main American Fuji repair office in New Jersey to see what was going on.  After a few transfers, I was talking to the chief repair technician for the X100, he literally called himself “the horses mouth” when talking about the X100 repairs in America.   He said that after the massive earthquake in Japan, where the X100 plant was heavily damaged, a number of bad batches of lenses did get out.  He went on to say that as long as you have the recept (and its not a grey market camera)  Fuji America will fix the problem, even if you bought the camera used.  If you have a grey market camera, the fix for the sticky aperture (replacing the entire lens assembly) is 600 dollars, not 800 as a lot of forum threads say.  He went on to say that the number of bad lenses was very small compared to the number of cameras sold.  I would normally not wholly believe a representative of a large multinational corporation trying to downplay a problem with one of there products, but this guy actually sounded like his pride was hurt by these accusation that there were a lot of bad lenses and vehemently defended Fuji, saying that once Fuji America recalled 20,000 cameras to replace a bad CCD “without blinking an eye” when they realized there was a problem.   He insisted they would do the same with the X100 if they thought it was a problem with all of the cameras, but the number of bad lenses reported has been very low.

So to sum up. (This only applies in the USA.)

If you have an X100 with this problem purchased in America and you have the recept, you’re fine, even if you bought the camera used.  The repair technician went on to say that Fuji would pay for shipping and the average return time is about 72 hours on X100 sticky shutter repairs.

If you were planing to buy an X100 and are afraid to because of the bad buzz on the net, I think you should still get one.  Fuji America seems to be more than happy to fix any problems that might arise.  Also dont be afraid to pick up a used X100 as long as you get the original purchase recept.  I would avoid grey market cameras like the plague.

 ”Grey market” means that the item is not covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, because the manufacturer’s licensed or authorized agent or representative did not import that item into the USA and did not sell it to the retailer to sell it to you.”

(Since I wasn’t taking notes during this phone conversation, this article was written from my sometimes fallible memory.)

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Long exposure, double exposures.

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The other day I loaded up a Polaroid 250 Land camera with 100 speed Fuji color instant film (Slow film, needs lots of light.), when I realized I probably should have loaded the 3000 speed. (Fast film, needs considerable less light.)

Due to this I decided to take some long exposure, double exposures.

The model is Mischa Marie, all photo’s taken with a Polaroid 250 Land camera, each image is comprised of two 5 second exposures at f8

I really like the way the long exposures blended the images together.

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PZ 600 UV+ Silver Shade

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Justin with his C330.

I shot the last of my stockpiled PZ 600 Silver Shade when my friend Justin Goode came into town last week.

We went to a the beach in Pacifica Ca. and I think the results are lovely.

Justin photographing at the waters edge with his C330.

Justin far away.

The pier at Pacifica.

Justin Goode's portrait of an extremely handsome man who just happened to stroll by.

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Disneyland

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I had assume that Disneyland would be brightly lit after dark, I was startled to realize that the illumination was kept at a very, very low level.

I went to Disneyland over Thanksgiving.  The moment I stepped in the main entrance nostalgia washed over me, it was like I was seven years old again.

The top of a rocket ride in Tomorrowland. Yashica T4, Ilford Super XP2.

Ilford Delta 3200, this is grainer than I would normally expect. I suspect this film was either old or had gotten hot.

Yashica T4 with Ilford XP2.

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The Spark Program.

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Konica Hexar AF with Ilford Delta 3200. Billy Baque

I’ve been teaching a student for the Spark Program, a nonprofit group that pairs kids with professionals.

My students name is Carlos and he’s 13 years old.  Before we started Carlos had never taken what he called a “serious picture.”

Here are a few of the shots we have taken together.

Nikon F5 with a Nikkor 28mm f2. Billy Baque

Konica Hexar AF with Ilford Super XP2. Billy Baque

Nikon F5 with a Nikkor 28mm f2. Billy Baque

Carlos and a model on Treasure Island. Billy Baque

For only having taken a total of five rolls of film in his life, I’d say Carlos is doing exceedingly well.

Taken by my student Carlos.

Taken by my student Carlos.

Taken by my student Carlos.

In case your a cynic and are saying, "well obviously you talked young Carlos through each of those photo's and he couldn't possibly do that good on his own." Well, here's one he took at school with me no where in sight. Not cropped.

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Reasons Why Professional Photographers Cannot Work for Free

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This was written by Tony Wu on his blog http://photoprofessionals.wordpress.com/  and released under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported LicenseI feel its important enough for me to repost this.

Dear potential photo buyer, If you have been directed to this page, it is likely that you have requested the use of an image or images for free or minimal compensation. As professional photographers, we receive requests for free images on a regular basis. In a perfect world, each of us would love to be able to respond in a positive manner and assist, especially with projects or efforts related to areas such as education, social issues, and conservation of natural resources. It is fair to say that in many cases, we wish we had the time and resources to do more to assist than just send photographs. Unfortunately, such are the practicalities of life that we are often unable to respond, or that when we do, our replies are brief and do not convey an adequate sense of the reasons underlying our response. Circumstances vary for each situation, but we have found that there are a number of recurring themes, which we have set out below with the objective of communicating more clearly with you, and hopefully avoiding misunderstandings or unintentionally engendering ill will. Please take the following points in the constructive manner in which they are intended. We certainly hope that after you have had a chance to read this, we will be able to talk again and establish a mutually beneficial working relationship. Photographs Are Our Livelihood Creating compelling images is the way we make our living. If we give away our images for free, or spend too much time responding to requests for free images, we cannot make a living. We Do Support Worthy Causes With Images Most of us do contribute photographs, sometimes more, to support certain causes. In many cases, we may have participated directly in projects that we support with images, or we may have a pre-existing personal relationship with key people involved with the efforts concerned. In other words, each of us can and does provide images without compensation on a selective basis. We Have Time Constraints Making a leap from such selective support to responding positively to every request we get for free photographs, however, is impractical, if for no other reason than the substantial amount of time required to respond to requests, exchange correspondence, prepare and send files, and then follow-up to find out how our images were used and what objectives, if any, were achieved. It takes a lot of time to respond to requests, and time is always in short supply. Pleas of “We Have No Money” Are Often Difficult to Fathom The primary rationale provided in nearly all requests for free photographs is budgetary constraint, meaning that the requestor pleads a lack of funds. Such requests frequently originate from organisations with a lot of cash on hand, whether they be publicly listed companies, government or quasi-government agencies, or even NGOs. Often, it is a simple matter of taking a look at a public filing or other similar disclosure document to see that the entity concerned has access to significant funding, certainly more than enough to pay photographers a reasonable fee should they choose to do so. To make matters worse, it is apparent that all too often, of all the parties involved in a project or particular effort, photographers are the only ones being asked to work for free. Everyone else gets paid. Given considerations like this, you can perhaps understand why we frequently feel slighted when we are told that: “We have no money.” Such claims can come across as a cynical ploy intended to take advantage of gullible individuals. We Have Real Budget Constraints With some exceptions, photography is not a highly remunerative profession. We have chosen this path in large part due to the passion we have for visual communication, visual art, and the subject matters in which we specialise. The substantial increase in photographs available via the internet in recent years, coupled with reduced budgets of many photo buyers, means that our already meager incomes have come under additional strain. Moreover, being a professional photographer involves significant monetary investment. Our profession is by nature equipment-intensive. We need to buy cameras, lenses, computers, software, storage devices, and more on a regular basis. Things break and need to be repaired. We need back-ups of all our data, as one ill-placed cup of coffee could literally erase years of work. For all of us, investment in essential hardware and software entails thousands of dollars a year, as we need to stay current with new technology and best practices. In addition, travel is a big part of many of our businesses. We must spend a lot of money on transportation, lodging and other travel-related costs. And of course, perhaps most importantly, there is a substantial sum associated with the time and experience we have invested to become proficient at what we do, as well as the personal risks we often take. Taking snapshots may only involve pressing the camera shutter release, but creating images requires skill, experience and judgement. So the bottom line is that although we certainly understand and can sympathise with budget constraints, from a practical point of view, we simply cannot afford to subsidise everyone who asks. Getting “Credit” Doesn’t Mean Much Part and parcel with requests for free images premised on budgetary constraints is often the promise of providing “credit” and “exposure”, in the form or a watermark, link, or perhaps even a specific mention, as a form of compensation in lieu of commercial remuneration. There are two major problems with this. First, getting credit isn’t compensation. We did, after all, create the images concerned, so credit is automatic. It is not something that we hope a third party will be kind enough to grant us. Second, credit doesn’t pay bills. As we hopefully made clear above, we work hard to make the money required to reinvest in our photographic equipment and to cover related business expenses. On top of that, we need to make enough to pay for basic necessities like food, housing, transportation, etc. In short, receiving credit for an image we created is a given, not compensation, and credit is not a substitute for payment. “You Are The Only Photographer Being Unreasonable” When we do have time to engage in correspondence with people and entities who request free photos, the dialogue sometimes degenerates into an agitated statement directed toward us, asserting in essence that all other photographers the person or entity has contacted are more than delighted to provide photos for free, and that somehow, we are “the only photographer being unreasonable”. We know that is not true. We also know that no reasonable and competent photographer would agree to unreasonable conditions. We do allow for the fact that some inexperienced photographers or people who happen to own cameras may indeed agree to work for free, but as the folk wisdom goes: “You get what you pay for.” Please Follow-Up One other experience we have in common is that when we do provide photographs for free, we often do not receive updates, feedback or any other form of follow-up letting us know how the event or project unfolded, what goals (if any) were achieved, and what good (if any) our photos did. All too often, we don’t even get responses to emails we send to follow-up, until, of course, the next time that someone wants free photographs. In instances where we do agree to work for free, please have the courtesy to follow-up and let us know how things went. A little consideration will go a long way in making us feel more inclined to take time to provide additional images in the future. Wrap Up We hope that the above points help elucidate why the relevant photographer listed below has sent you to this link. All of us are dedicated professionals, and we would be happy to work with you to move forward in a mutually beneficial manner.

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Fuji Instax 210 Review

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I held off picking one of these up for the longest time.  It was easy at first. I was all into the Impossible instant films, and a Polaroid SX-70 is a far sexier camera to shoot.  So for a while I didn’t think about the 210, but eventually I broke down and got one.

In the late afternoon sun, her hair was exactly that shade of red. This film records very accurate colors.

Looking at the back of the box in the camera store parking lot, I was a little surprised.  This camera only has shutter speeds from 1/64 ~ 1/200 of a second and an aperture of f14. Not f14 to f60 like a old polaroid camera, just f14.  It uses zone focusing with only two zones, 0.9 to 3 meters and 3 meters to infinity.  On reading this I almost brought it back to the store, I mean three shutter speeds and a single f stop with 800 speed film.  I thought to myself, man this thing is going to overexpose in bright daylight, and I’m always going to have to use a flash when Im not in bright daylight. However I had seen enough pictures taken with it online to know it took good images

Getting a good sharp, in focus photo with the close up attachment on is somewhat difficult, but once you get the hang of it, its still somewhat difficult.

So how does it shoot.  The camera feels great in the hands, with a large and easy to grip handle.  When you turn the camera on the lens extends to the 0.9 to 3 meter zone focusing range, if your subject is more than 3 meters from you, just hit a button on the side of the camera and the lens retracts to its 3 meters to infinity position.  Theres nothing in the camera to tell you if your outside the focus range, so pay attention to where your subject is in relation to which focus zone you have it set on. Pressing and holding the shutter release will fire a very quite shutter, after releasing the shutter, the film will eject and begin to develop.  I’ve discovered after shooting around 60 images with the 210, its best to just leave it on fully automatic and not try to override the flash.  With such a narrow range of shutter speeds and one f stop, the flash is used most of the time, and the camera does a very good job of balancing the ambient light with its flash.

Taken in extremely bright light, the whole side of her face is overexposed. Though the films handles the overexposure nicely and it doesn’t really harm the quality of the photo.

I was slightly too far away from her eye, thats why its not in focus, that close up attachment is tricky.

Due to the kind of viewfinder they chose to use on the 210, its critical you look directly through the viewfinder. I blew several shots by looking through the finder at a slight angle.

Self portraits are what I think the close up attachment has actually been optimized for. I ask my models to tell me when they can only see their head in the attached mirror. I've gotten all my in focus shots that way.

When you approach the edges of those two focus zones your definitely in danger of getting a soft focused image.

This is the kind of picture I think this camera has been optimized to take. Indoors, 3 to 9 feet away with a background.

So, is it worth a dollar a shot?  I think so.  Fuji has matched a very good film with a specifically designed camera.  As a professional I feel it lacks a few elements that would make it a wonderful camera, but in reality that would make the camera more expensive.  I paid 69.99 for my 210, and at that price point I give it five stars.  It will give you a great image in everything but the brightest sunlight, and the film is more than acceptable. If you want a taste of what Polaroid used to offer and find the Impossible films a little too experimental, then the Fuji Instax is for you. As a bonus, every time I buy film for this camera, be it at a camera store or Wall Mart, the cashier always mentions that the cameras and film sell like hot cakes, so I am assuming the film will be around for a long time.

Im not saying that an instant camera captures memories better than a "regular" camera, but It does inspires me to take pictures I wouldn't take with a regular camera. Such as Mischa acting silly.

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iPhone Photo App Review: AutoPainter II

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AutoPainter vol 2: “The Illustrators” automatically turns your photo into a realistic drawings using some of the best rendering styles available on any system.”  The Programer.

For the last several weeks I have been trying out several apps that turn your photos into drawings.  After being slightly disappointed by what I found, I finally found both versions of the AutoPainter app.  After playing with both of them, my conclusion is that AutoPainter II, on the Felt tip pen setting is the absolute winner.

AutoPainter uses a three stage process to render your image.

Each stage is randomized every time you process an image.

This stage smooths and blends the underpainting.

It takes about a minute and a half to process each image, while heating the back of the iphone to the touch and visibly lowering the power bar.

Heres what happens when you run a Decim8'ed image through Autopainter II.

 

AutoPainter II currently is my favorite photo to drawing app.  You can run the same image through several times and each result will be different in a subtle but distinct way.  The resulting image looks very organic.

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IMG3585

Billiards Photography

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"Do you like to gamble, Eddie? Gamble money on pool games? "

For ten years of my life I ran with an excellent crew.  We were all pool players and we were a family.  We looked out for each other, and we spent almost all of our time together.  I started photographing my friends in the pool hall around 1995 and continued on till 2002.  Now I didn’t blast through hundreds of rolls of film.  I would always have my camera on me, but I would only take a few shots a night.  This was because I didn’t want to anger the players, and I only liked to photograph real games, games involving money.

 (Please click images to enlarge)

Rear curtain sync, this is one of the rare times I used a flash, it brought to much attention to myself and distracted the players.

Tips for photographing billiards.

Be stealthy.  Get a quite camera, if you can hear it over the music its too loud.  (If your camera is loud, you can wait until just after the cue makes contact with the cue ball to fire the shutter, this way you shouldn’t spook the player.) Dont move around except in between games.  Frame your shot imagining where the pool player should be, keep the camera to your eye then wait for the game to naturally bring the player into that position.  This may take several games to happen, be patient. dont draw attention to yourself.

This is my favorite kind of billiards picture, the ones that give you a sense that the shooter is not the only player, and that watching someone not miss can be a soul crushing experience.

An important part of photographing in a pool hall is knowing who not to photograph.  Sometimes this means a person who has a temper, or maybe is involved in any number of extra-legal activities.  Not a joke.  Know who your are photographing, even in the background of your photos.  Otherwise you might hear, “Hey, lets take a walk outside.” Happened to me, and thats all Im going to say.

A wide angle lens allows you to hand hold your camera using a very slow shutter speed.

Sometimes a silhouette is all you can get in a dark pool hall.

Three cushion billiards, three balls, no pockets, and a crushing difficulty level.

T-Max 3200 pushed to 6400 ASA, grain is inevitable.

Set up in between games.

Layers of action are possible in a pool hall.

The Long Night Syndrome.

Aquired by not seeing the sun for several months straight.  When questioned about an event in the past, all you know is it didn’t happen tonight, didn’t happen last night, but happened at some indeterminable time in the past.  Like every night was part of one long night.

He was sitting down because his opponent simply refused to miss.

There is a balance between stillness and motion in a pool hall.

Remember that during a break shot, the cue ball can fly off the table at almost any angle.  Once I was trying to photograph a break when the cue ball slammed into my side, cracking a rib. Be careful.

Racking is a skill only learned by losing.

Taken with an Olympus 35 SP. Sometimes out of focus is good.

 

My time at the pool hall was some of my best times.  Nights full of adventure and friends to listen to my stories.

Im thankful for it all, some people never have it that good.

Me and my friends, somewhere in that long night.

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The last Polaroid.

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I found this hiding in the pages of Neuromancer by William Gibson, my favorite novel of all time.  Its the last piece of actual Polaroid instant film I ever shot.

 

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Impossible Project Film Seminar

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The good people at Keeble and Shuchat Photography presented this to me at the conclusion of my seminar. I am surprised at the amount of pride this 30 year old pin brings me.

I just wanted to say thank you to both the Impossible Project and Keeble and Shuchat Photography.  They both bent over backwards to provide me with with all I needed to run a fun, informative workshop.

It brings a smile to my face to see someone enjoying the art-deco goodness of an SX-70 Land camera.

The Impossible Project Vice President David Bias personally spoke with me on the phone for over an hour, filling me in on the nuances of the new films.  I really appreciate him speaking to me.  Those Ilford people never call me back.

The Impossible Project has come a long way since PX 70 PUSH, their first color film. However I find that this film still has a certain charm to it. (This is a very nice lady that works at Keeble and Shuchat.)

Teaching this class was a genuine honor, I hope I get the chance to do a similar thing in the future. Once again, thank you to all those that participated.

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iPhone Photo App Review: Acoustic Picture Transmitter

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This is He who suffers for me, bearer of my pains and afflictons. I keep a rather nice print of this locked in my attic.

  (For the record, he is wearing a swimsuit.  So please, no letters to the Editor.)

With APT you can transmit and receive images acoustically. To do this each column of the selected image gets transformed by a Fast Fourier Transform and outputed through iPhones speaker. On the receiving iOS-device the received audio is visualized by a spectrogram so that the incoming image becomes visible. You can use this app to transmit images very easily over a phone or to put images into any kind of audio recording.  The Programmer.

 

The "noise" you see in the image is actually the song "Across 110th Street" by the great Bobby Womack.

This is really an interesting App.  The programmer apparently wrote this with the intention of people sending each other sonically encoded pictures like kids trading ciphers with their decoder rings.

The Jonny Quest decoder ring, some say it can summon that walking eye robot thing, but only if you believe.

However, this program is really a very interesting filter that you can use to flavor your photo’s with sound.

A spectrograph is an instrument that separates an incoming wave into a frequency spectrum plotted over time.

What the program does is take a picture form your iPhones photos folder and then converts that image into a sound wave using math I wont pretend to understand.  When this sound wave is viewed as a spectrogram the image is reviled.  This was first(?) done by Aphex Twin in the song “Windowlicker.”

Image encoded by Aphex Twin in the song "Windowlicker"

How the program does this is the magic part.  Instead of just converting the image into what it would look like if you ran it through a spectrograph, this program plays the audio file through the iPhones external speaker and then uses the microphone to “hear” the sound from the speaker and then runs that signal through a real spectrograph.  At first I thought all this would allow you to do would be to flavor the image with ambient sound, like I did with the first image with “Across 110th street.”  (I just had the program play the file to make the image while playing the song on my laptop and holding the phone near the speakers.) But, while I was playing around with APT, I discovered that the by varying how you hold the iPhone it changes the frequencies that get to the microphone, and that effects the final image.  In essence this allows you to affect the image by changing the acoustical environment the phone is in.

I cupped my hands around the phone, then opened and closed them, creating a "wah wah" effect.

This is "Starry Eyed" by Ellie Goulding encoded into my image.


This setting adds noise to the audio signal, making a fuzzy image.

The “noise” setting makes a very eerie sounding audio file.

In a quite room, an incredible level of resolution is possible. Notice the dark bottom of the image, I was somehow blocking the lower frequencies from getting to the microphone.

 Here’s the audio file for this image

An interesting idea I had for this program is that at my next gallery show, I’ll make an installation with an MP3 player and a speaker that plays an APT audio file.

A QR code would take people to the App store to download the free version of this App.  The patron would then run the App, place their phone near the speaker, then hit the button to play the sound file.  The Image they receive will be a one of a kind image encoded with the ambient noise of the gallery.

Or, I rent time on a radio telescope and beam my images into the inky blackness of space.  Either way its a pretty cool program.

Oh, come to think of it, you could probably use this program to put an image into a song.

Here’s a bonus image to try with the free App.

All of the files in this article were encoded at 8kHz with the high pass filter on, Lin F and exact. (Use the noise setting for the fuzzy one.)  Some of these features are only available in the payed App.

I used the Censor Booth App to make the bonus image.

I am in no way affiliated with the Author of this program.

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